Abstract
Objective: Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography–thiobarbituric acid reactive substances–ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. Methods: The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde–thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. Results: Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. Conclusions: It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 647-654 |
| Number of pages | 8 |
| Journal | International Journal of Cosmetic Science |
| Volume | 45 |
| Issue number | 5 |
| DOIs | |
| Publication status | Published - Oct 2023 |
Bibliographical note
Publisher Copyright:© 2023 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.
Funding
This research was funded by Fundação de Ampara à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP, grant numbers 2019/16169‐0 and 2021/13276‐0); Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq, Process 303862/2022‐0); Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, I.P., funding UIDB/04567/2020 and UIDP/04567/2020; and Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior—Brazil (CAPES, Finance Code 001). C.F. Hiraishi, P.I.S. Macedo and G.A. Marques are grateful to PIBIC‐CNPq, FAPESP and CAPES scholarships, respectively.
| Funders | Funder number |
|---|---|
| Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo | 2019/16169‐0, 2021/13276‐0 |
| Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia | UIDP/04567/2020, UIDB/04567/2020 |
| Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior | |
| Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico | 303862/2022‐0 |
Keywords
- age differences
- chemical analysis
- gender differences
- phototype differences
- skin physiology/structure
- statistics